Canned wild game—delicious and easy

By M.D. Johnson

I was introduced to canned wild game in 1993. I’d moved from my native Ohio to southwest Washington because…well, let’s just say six years later she would become Mrs. Michael Johnson. 

It was, indeed, my future wife, Julie, who not only first fed me home canned wild game, but taught me how to can my annual harvests. “If you like it that much,” she said jokingly, “then you should learn how to do it. It’s fun.”

Still, and in spite of all its positives, canning wild game isn’t without its challenges. Here, we’ll take an in-depth look at what goes into properly and safely canning your wild harvest.

The equipment list

What do you need to can wild game at home, should you be starting from square one? Like many projects, canning can be as simple or as complicated as one wishes; however, there are a handful of “must have” items.

Pressure Canner: Canners come in different sizes or capacities based on the amount of liquid each is capable of holding, which then translates into how many jars — be they half pints, pints or quarts — each can process at one time. All American, for instance, offers their canners in sizes from 10-quart (seven pints) to the 41-quart behemoth that holds 32 pints. 

Some canners use a weight to measure the amount of internal pressure produced and maintained during the process. Most, if not all canners, will include a canning rack that fits the bottom of the canner and prevents the jars from sitting directly on the heated metal.

Jars: Quality jars in half pint, pint and quart sizes are available; however, with the COVID pandemic and a renewed interest in home canning, these essentials can be a challenge to find. Old-school businesses like Jack’s Country Store in Ocean Park, Washington, or the Red Hill General Store, with branches in Virginia and North Carolina, will often carry traditional jar brands such as Ball, Kerr and Atlas. 

Rings and seals, aka bands and lids: Both are used to seal the jars during the canning process and then maintain that airtight integrity during storage. My wife is partial to Ball rings and seals; however, several manufacturers (e.g., Kerr) offer them. Another option is reusable lids and rubber seals, such as those available under the Tattler brand. 

Accessories: This list would include a heavy bottom stock pot for pre-cooking meats/broth; a jar lifter for removing hot jars from the canner; a timer; a seal magnet for pulling lids from their hot water bath; and a wide mouth funnel for filling jars. All of the items above are available from AllAmericanCanner.com.

Canned wild game: How to do it step-by-step

NOTE: Pressure canning involves pressure, heat, steam and metal. The process requires your full attention. It isn’t something you can walk away from, nor can you let yourself be distracted.

For simplicity’s sake, let’s pretend we’re canning venison; specifically, deer. The process can be the same, whether the harvest be elk, moose, bear, duck, goose or pheasant. Seasonings are your decision. However, pressure and time may differ depending on such things as jar size, contents and altitude. Consult the guide that came with your pressure canner for a ready reference.

Step 1

Wash and inspect the jars for cracks or chips, even if they’re new. Sterilize jars using your dishwasher (hot/no soap), or by boiling lightly upside in two to three inches of water. My wife keeps her jars hot, as one should, in a 140-degree oven until she’s ready to use them. At this time, she also puts a corresponding number of lids (12 jars = 12 lids + 12 rings) into a shallow pan of simmering water. This cleans them, as well as softens the lids themselves, allowing for a sure seal. 

Step 2

Cube venison into one-inch pieces, place in stock pot, and cover with distilled (no chlorine/fluoride) water. Season to taste. 

Julie says this is called the ‘hot pack’ method. “I prefer it over cold pack [no pre-cooking] because a taste test tells you exactly what you’re going to end up with when you’re done,” she explains. Bring the meat/broth mixture to a boil, turn the heat off and immediately go on to Step 3.

Step 3

Using the wide mouth funnel and a slotted spoon, fill the jars with the pre-cooked meat to within one inch of the top. This is known as headspace. Run a butter knife along the inside edge of each jar to release air bubbles. Cover the meat with hot broth, being sure to leave headspace. Wipe the rim of the jar, seat a lid and tighten the ring snug.

Step 4

Put two inches of water in the canner and place the jars inside, making sure to place them so they don’t touch. Tighten the canner lid according to directions, and bring to a boil. No weight at this point. Once the water reaches 212 degrees, the canner will begin to vent. Allow this venting to continue for seven to eight minutes, at which time you can place the weight on the vent stem and, with the first jiggle, begin timing. “Most of my wild game is canned at 10 pounds pressure for 90 minutes,” Julie says. “I’m looking for the weight to ‘jiggle’ two to three times a minute. Too much, and the heat’s too high. Too little, and it’s too low. It’s important to watch it closely.”

Step 5

DING! Done! Ninety minutes, but do NOT remove the weight or loosen the lid. Turn off the heat and allow the pressure to drop to zero. Don’t try to hurry the process. A gauged canner will read zero; with a weight, a light touch will result in a hiss, spit or sputter from the vent stem, meaning pressure remains.

Step 6

With pressure at zero, open the canner and, with the jar lifter, remove each jar, setting them on a rack to cool. Now, listen. That clear melodic TINK sound you’re hearing is the jars sealing. To be doubly sure they’ve sealed, press down on the center of each lid. They should be tight, with no flex. 

If you’ve made it to the end, congratulations! You’ve officially canned wild game.